
PetsWeekly.com is proud to welcome Stacy
Mantle to our website!
Stacy
and her Animal Crew will be answering all of your
questions on this page, so please email us at smantle@petsweekly.com for answers to the
behavioral questions you've
always wondered about.
[World's
Oldest Dog] [Why
Cats Cover Feces] [Spraying Cats] [Disobedient
Cats] [Abandoned Pets] [Indoor
vs. Outdoor Cats]
[Weaning Kittens] [Tail
Twitching] [Cat Kneading
and Suckling]
[Meet
The Behavioral Team]

Cat
who Kneads and Suckles
Dear
Kyra,
I have an adopted 5-month-old ginger boy named Barney. He's
a very sweet, funny
kitty, and I love him to pieces. But...he has some
strange quirks. The nice people at the animal shelter
told me that he was separated from his mom too early and was bottle
fed for a while, so he liked to "suckle" on people's
fingers. I thought that this was cute and he would
eventually grow out of it. The problem is that he's not
growing out of it, and it's getting worse. When I'm
trying to sleep at night, he will try to suckle my nose, earlobes,
neck, or any exposed skin. Of course, he also "makes
biscuits" on me at the same time. This is rather
annoying when I'm trying to get a good night's sleep. (Have
you ever tried to sleep while another kitty makes biscuits on your
chin? It's hard!)
How can I break my Barney of this habit? I've tried using
strongly scented skin care products in hopes that he wouldn't like
the taste, but it hasn't made any difference. Please
help?
Lyndsae
Raleigh
Lyndsae,
Sigh. These little guys are so demanding! I’m
constantly fending off the demanding attentions of Alex, Hephaestion
and Magellan. All they want to do is knead and suckle and eat
and follow me around. It’s demeaning to all types of cats, really.
Kneading and suckling are two separate behaviors though, so
let’s take them one at a time.
Originally, kneading is done to help stimulate the flow of milk
while kittens are nursing. The
kitten will often salivate a bit at the thought of the milk (much
like Pavlov’s dogs – shudder), and kneading is generally done at
the rate of one stroke per second. Eventually the rate picks up as
the kitten is rewarded (or un-rewarded) by the
behavior. So the fact that Barney is doing this with you shows
that he is attempting to nurse, which means he trusts you and feels
on some level that you are his provider and his mother. Bravo!
You should feel honored!
The fact that Barney is exhibiting this type of behavior towards you
is a very good thing. Cats (and kittens) only perform this
behavior when they feel as though they are with their mother. It
is not a result of being weaned too early, although I’m not saying
that isn’t a contributing factor. However, since nearly all
cats do this in moments of emotional contentment, I believe that it
is merely a sign of showing pleasure for their owner.
Kneading can also be attributed to “territorial marking”. In
the deep recesses of our paws, we have “scent glands” near the
base of our claws – another reason why humans should NEVER DECLAW
A CAT! These little glands allow us to leave our scent in
areas that we have crossed, or pawed, or clawed, so that the other
cats know what is ours. Barney is telling everyone around that
you are his alone! He is marking his territory! (Be
happy he is not spraying!).
Suckling,
however, is an entirely different issue and could very well be a
result of Barney being weaned too early. However, there
are other issues that could be contributing to this behavior. Only
you know Barney! Here are a few suggestions to try, if you
haven’t already done so:
1. First, pick up some Feliway (Feliway Spray Feliway Spray (75 ml)
) and/or ComfortZone (Comfort Zone Plug-In Comfort Zone Plug-In (48 ml)
) to put into the most-used room of your house! This
remarkable stuff will help Barney relax as it releases feline
pheromones into the air and helps them stay calm and content. Mom
put some in our house everyone calmed down right away! I think
it will help Barney feel a little more secure.
2.
Provide Barney with an “indoor garden”. One of our favorites is
the Kitty Grass Garden by Smart Cats, which looks like this: 
It’s easy to grow (ours sprouted ONE DAY after my mom
planted it in the house, and she usually kills all plants!). A
higher fiber snack may be more desirable to Barney and help distract
him from suckling.
3.
Try just standing up and walking away. This is what “mom
cat” does during the weaning process. Barney may require
being “weaned” all over again. Don’t talk to him, or
give him any extra attention. Just leave. After a few days of
this, he will grow bored and realize that you will not be providing
"milk" or "comfort" anymore and he will need to
locate it on his own.
4.
Each night, provide a silent “smart toy” or two for Barney.
Something that brings out his hunting instincts is purrfect.
Our favorites are on our Christmas
list: Check out the Furry mice (great for night-time
play), the Cat Spa, the Star Chaser and the Catfisher
Mouse and Mitt. Any of those should help tremendously.
(They are also quiet, so you can still sleep while he plays).
5.
You may consider adopting another furry friend for Barney.
Occasionally they just need another kitten or cat to play
with! Many shelters will let you bring Barney in to meet with
a new little friend who he might get along well with. This may
be the answer to your prayers.
6.
Ask a vet to examine Barney’s molar teeth (and all his teeth for
that matter!). Occasionally, sore mouths may stop them from
eating solid food, which increases the need for suckling and also
helps them get their mind off of pain.
7.
Finally as a last resort, you might ask your vet if Barney fits the
criteria for being “Obsessive Compulsive”.
If so, there are medications available to treat this disorder.
However, this should be a last resort. Please be sure to
try every other option listed above first.
Hopefully one or more of these suggestions will provide some peace
and non-kneading, non-suckling into your home. Likely, you
will never rid of yourself of the kneading, just know that you are
honored to have your kitty trust you so much! It’s not too
many people who can be an honorary “cat mom”! But, the
suckling should be rectified. That can be annoying and it
should be fixable. If any of these suggestions don’t work,
please stay in touch and I’ll consult some of my other feline
friends for their ideas!
Purrs
and head butts,
 |
Kyra
|

The
World's Oldest Dog
Hello Cheiss,
I have a dog that is part
Chihuahua and part fiest. She is 23 years old, I got her 23 years
ago, my daughter is 25 years old, I wanted to know if my dog might
be the oldest dog alive. Please let me know if she is.
Thank you,
Paula
Hello Paula!
Congratulations on your
dog’s 23rd birthday!
That’s quite a feat! Obviously
she is well taken care of, and that’s what we at PetsWeekly love
to hear!
Unfortunately, she does not
hold the title of the “world’s oldest dog”.
That honor goes to an Australian cattle-dog named Bluey.
He was finally put to sleep at the ripe old age of 29
years and 5 months!
There is some dissension in
the ranks when it comes to the title of the world’s oldest dog,
however. Another dog, a Beagle b the name of Butch, holds the American
title for world’s oldest dog.
His name can be found in the Guinness Book of World Records
for living to the age of 27 years – that’s about 190
in human years! At
last note, he was still alive and begging for food!
So keep taking great care of
your dog, and who knows? In
another four years, you may be able to claim the title of
“World’s Oldest Dog!
Paws,
|
Cheiss |
 |

Cats
Covering Their "Feces"
Dear Kyra,
Why do cats cover their
feces? My two cats are
neurotic about covering up everything in their litter box, which is
stupid because it’s automatic anyway.
Is it really necessary?
Thanks,
Kristin
Purrs and Head butts
Kristin!
Cats cover up their feces
because they don’t want to be to eaten by large prey.
Seriously. We
know that there are no large animals who will eat us in the house
(unless you live here with my mom, who happens to have a coyote
living with us, which is a whole other story in itself). But,
most cats don’t have coyotes living in homes with them.
Mostly it is instinct.
We cover up our feces so
that the bigger and meaner animals can’t find us.
That’s why we begin using our litter box so early, and
without any real training. Besides
the fact that we are so much more intelligent than other animals,
such as coyotes, it is instinctual for us to cover our litter.
On the other hand, were we
living in the wild, and were we the dominant male, we would be
prominently displaying our “droppings” as a warning to all who
entered our domain. This
is one way we let others know who is really the boss.
So be happy that your cats are covering up their feces, and
are using the litter box. Occasionally,
we will leave something around just to prove who the boss really is,
but then mom and dad step in and remind us were not in the wild.
The coyote doesn’t say much about it though.
He’s pretty domesticated.
It’s sad, really.
Remember that if a cat
suddenly stops using the litter box for some reason, you should have
it checked it out immediately by a veterinarian.
There could be a urinary blockage or perhaps there is some
type of medical reason behind a sudden change of behavior.
Mom has reviewed some pretty good products to clean up the
occasional accident as well, so be sure to check out On the Prowl
for some great recommendations.
I hope that answers your
question! We’re all
just wild at heart, you know!
Purrs,
| Kyra,
The Cog |
 |

Spraying
Cats
Hephaestian,
I
live with 2 male cats (neutered) and 1 female cat (spayed).
All of a sudden they have started spraying (they are 1 year
old). They have sprayed my bed, my doors and in my closet
(that I know of). I'm sick of doing laundry and I don't know
if it is just one cat or all of them, or just the males. Can
females even spray? I would like to find out which ones are
spraying, why they are spraying and more importantly, how I can make
them ALL STOP spraying! I'm not the type of person to just get
rid of my pets when they do something bad, but I've HAD IT with this
behavior! Any ideas on how to solve this issue?
Thanks,
Jeff
Purrs
and head butts, Jeff!
Wow.
That's a lot too take. I remember when my mom had to deal with
15 male cats and 3 female cats at one time. All of us were
spraying, because really, that's what we do... You've heard the
expression "P**sing contest"? Well, that is pretty
much what was going on. Cat urine carries a chemical known as
"uretic
crystals" and marking territory with these crystals helps
us remember whose turn it is to "own" something. We sort
of "timeshare" our belongings, such as scratch posts, and
this allows us to let the other cats know whose turn it is.
Even the females do this, so don't think it's just the guys!
(We generally get the blame because people think that females don't
spray, but they are not as prissy as everyone thinks they are!)
Obviously
this is very traumatic for humans who, rumor has it, tend to avoid
"urine marking". As far as identifying the culprit,
there are a number of ways you can do this. But, why?
When one stops spraying another will probably start, so eliminate
the problem altogether. If you really feel the need to find
out if only one cat is doing it, write back and we'll tell you ways
that can be done. But, for now, let's concentrate on stopping
the problem.
The
first thing you need to do is eliminate any health problems. I
say that because I'm legally obligated by the Coalition of Cat
Attorneys to say so. I really think that they are doing it
because they can. But, it's a good thing to take all of your
kitties in for their annual anyway. Once the health problems
are eliminated, you can begin the solving the real problem, which is
"time sharing" and "attitude".
The
first thing to do is block access to the object they spray the
most. This can be done in several ways. The best way is
through a little product known as Ssscat,
which I personally despise. It's motion activated, highly
effective, and non-invasive. You can read a review that my mom
did on the product here.
But
before you block access, you need to eliminate any trace of cats
being in that spot. This can be done with a product known as UrineOff,
and you can read about it here.
It's the only product on the market that actually dissolves the
uretic crystal. It even penetrates wood, concrete and grout,
but is gentle enough for clothes and materials.
When
you've finished spraying that area down (and that's ALL you have to
do), purchase the next little item known as Feliway.
Spray a bit directly on the area that was being sprayed, and then
plug in the Comfort
Zone Diffuser. This will help calm the cats down and make
them forget about territorial disputes or marking areas, really, it
will make them forget about anything but relaxing and getting along
happily.
Hope
that helps! Write back if you have additional questions and
we'll be happy to toss out a few more ideas!
Purrs,
| Hephaestion |
 |

Tail
Twitching
Mama-San
My
1 yr old tabby has developed a fear of its tail! The end
twitches and she sometimes lightly attacks it, but most times just
runs from it (especially at night) your site mentions anger in
connection with tip- twitching. But she is the sweetest little cat
in world and gets along famously with two other cats in the house
who are the same age. We have had visits from a raccoon
lately and we have more than a few neighborhood cats prowling
around. But this has me mystified. I hate to have to
give her drugs, but if it gets worse she might need prozac or
????? Any info would be greatly appreciated
Thanks,
Donna
Purrs
and head butts, Donna!
I
recently had a similar problem with my own tail, which also baffled
my mom, only I was twitching and chewing it down to a nub.
First of all, your cat's problem with her tail sounds more
neurological / nervous than physical. Of course, the
first thing my mom did was take me to a veterinarian for a full
workup. It's best to be safe, I suppose. So my first
recommendation is that you do the same. They will likely need
to draw blood in order to eliminate any kidney and/or liver issues
that could be contributing to this issue. The next thing
my mom did was evaluate me for food allergies. You may want to
think about changing her diet. I'm not sure what type of food you
have her on, but a good one (that has no allergens and tastes VERY
good is Life'sAbundance - you can find more information about it
here: http://www.petsweekly.com/LifeAbund.html)
But,
had my mom just listened to me, she would have known that I was
chewing my tail off because I was very upset with a new arrival in
the home, my arch-enemy, Isabo. Isabo was chasing me around
for no reason at all and had no idea that I was the queen of the
household, not her. But, she never did it when my mom was
watching. Isabo is VERY sneaky and conniving and I could never
explain the depths of her betrayals to my mother. Eventually
they put me on a mood altering medication, which did NO good because
I was just too stressed out. But, then my mom started really
paying attention. She saw that Isabo was terrorizing me, and
chasing me and finally realized what the real problem was. I
was so happy! They took me off of the medication, and purchased
something called "Feliway" which you can also read about here
(my mom is very thorough on product testing). She also put me
in a different room all by myself where I could be alone for awhile
with just my mom and dad. That made me feel much better. This
calmed everyone down and no one had to be on any drugs!
Eventually I felt much better, and I was able to come back out and
deal with all of the crazy cats in the house again. I just
needed a little break away from everyone, and some one-on-one time
with mom and dad.
So,
you may want to consider the behavioral issue. I would
say that the raccoon or the other cats may be contributing to her
behavior issues. Often, this nervous energy manifests
itself as tail-biting, teeth-grinding, and other negative things. I
do hope this helps a little! I always say: First,
eliminate the physical problem, then address the mental issue,
then cure the emotional distress. This is my usual
"Recipe for
success" with cats and it seems to work in 99.9% of all cases!
Good luck and please keep us posted on your progress! :)
Purrs,
|
Mama-San
>^..^< |
 |
Disobedient
Cats
Baby,
Why
does my cat insist on jumping up on the kitchen counter when I've
scolded him again and again for it?? His older sister does not do
that. She knows it's a no-no. So why does he do it?
Shirley
Hello
Shirley!
Cats love to be up high, and it is more normal for them to be on the
kitchen counter than not to be. In fact, I find it more
unusual that your kitty's sister is not
jumping up on the counter. However, it could be that females
are just simply a little more "in-tune" with our wishes!
It is also possible that your male has learned to associate food
with the countertops, and perhaps it gives him a sense of
superiority over the rest of the household by being up there.
(You know how males are with those superiority complexes!)
My first recommendation is to purchase a product known as Ssscat.
It's a wonderful deterrent and it works when you are not around.
That way your cat does not associate the negative behavior only with
your presence. You can read more about this product here.
You can set it on either noise plus a safe spray, or simply on
noise. It is motion-activated, so every time your cat jumps on
the counter, he will be met with a loud noise, which reminds him not
to do so. It only takes a few times before he associates this
negative sound with his behavior. Trust me - he will stop
jumping up there...
In addition to this, I would purchase (if you don't have one
already) a tall cat tree that might fit in an area near a window.
This will provide some extra entertainment for your kitty, and also
provide the stimulation and exercise that he gets from climbing.
Stacy Mantle, my personal assistant, has devoted herself to finding
the best products for us and has written a fun review on my most
favorite cat tree, which can be
found here. It is
easy to assemble and can be formed into many different shapes. It is
also very lightweight (Stacy can lift the entire 8 tiered set with
one hand, yet it is sturdy enough to hold 14 of my friends at once!)
I hope this helps. If you have any other questions, please
feel free to write any time!
Purrs,
|
Baby
>^..^< |
 |

Abandoned
Cat - What to Do?
Dear
Grey Socks,
I
have just found your web page on a search engine. I am after a bit
of advice really. My next door neighbours have moved away well the
wife and children have. However the husband goes away for 4 days
every week leaving the cat outside in the pouring rain etc. The lady
at the bottom of the road feeds her I think but it doesn't seem to
be on a regular basis. The cat is always on my doorstep meowing, but
I have a dog so am not really able to look after her. We have put
her a blanket in her porch for her to sleep on but she looks very
bedraggled and seems to have lost fur off her ears. I have never had
a cat myself so I do not really know anything about them, but I
would of thought that if you were moving house you would of taken
the cat with you to its new home by now. I would be very grateful
for some advice before I go complaining to the RSPCA and wasting
their time if it is normal behaviour to keep a cat like this. I
don't think it has ever been wormed or fleaed or had any injections
either, it is never let into the house when they lived here full time but now he only lives here part
time it seems to have even less companionship.
Yours
in Anticipation
Mrs.
Bristol
Mrs.
Bristol,
As I currently reside stateside in the wild deserts of Arizona, I'm
not sure how much assistance I am going to be. However, I can
assure that this is no way for a cat to be kept. If this were occurring
in the states, my house person would either take the cat in herself,
which it does not sound as if you are able to do, or she would
contact our local Humane Society (I believe that your equivalent
might be the RSPCA) for their recommendation. Bear in mind that even
if you have a dog, you may be able to take this poor cat in. I
currently reside with 18 other cats and 3 dogs, one of whom is
half-coyote/half wolf. And while we frequently have to remind
him who actually runs the household, we do live and play together in
relative peace. Remember, "the lion will lie down with
the lamb".
If you are in a position of helping this poor creature out, I would
say that may be the best solution. Again, I'm not sure how the
RSPCA operates, but if it occurred here, the cat may be put to sleep
for no other crime than lack of room in the shelter and their
owner's stupidity. It is animal cruelty and neglect, no matter
how you look at it. Their website is: http://www.rspca.org.uk/
I have also done a search on Yahoo for "United Kingdom Humane
Society", as I do not know of many in the UK. You might
get further by contacting a no-kill rescue organization and asking
them what they recommend. The search results that I came up
with are: http://dir.yahoo.com/Science
/Biology/Zoology/Animals_
_Insects__and_Pets/Organization
s/Humane_and_Rescue_Societies
/By_Region/Countries/United
_Kingdom/Complete_List?o=a
I hope that this helps. Please know that this poor cat
deserves a happy home and a healthy life, and we applaud your
attempt to help. Please keep us posted as to the outcome, as
we have confidence that it will be a positive one. And if you
have the opportunity, you may wish to knock the human creatures who
abandoned the poor thing upside the head. At the very least,
hiss at them...
Purrs,
|
Grey
Socks |
 |

Allowing
Indoor Cats Out
Dear Booger,
I'm very worried about my cat
Jack ( Girl) about
a month and half ago I moved Jack to our new home which has a lovely
big garden and no roads for miles. After about a month see started
cry to go out, Unfortunately our next do neighbour has 3 cats who
have probably been
using our garden as there territory for years. There's one cat in
particular who keeps attacking jack, on the first attack she caught
a nasty virus of this cat and was poorly for over a week, now she's
better and wants to go out again but she got attacked again, the
other cat didn't give her a chance it just flew at her, the only
thing I could do was chase it off but it just keeps coming back, do
u have any suggestions? I feel like I should just let Jack get on
with it and fight her own battles, but I find myself following her
and checking she's ok every time she's out of my sight. If u could
help I'd be very grateful I just want her to be happy in her new
home
Kind
Regards,
Carolyn & Jack
Dear
Carolyn,
First
off, let me address the issue of outdoor cats. The biggest
problem is that they can carry disease, just as indoor cats could,
but outdoor cats are more susceptible to it. They also live
about half as long as indoor cats, and are more likely to become
injured (or worse in horrible accidents). So - it is best for
Jack if you were to keep her inside.
Now that the "politically correct answer" is completed, I
can get to the answer that you wrote for.
There are several ways in which you and Jack can share the great
outdoors together without fear of disease, fights, accidents or any
of those other horrible things.
The first, and most practical solution, is cat fencing. I know
that it sounds horrible, but the fencing that I use is almost
invisible when it is installed. It is also strong enough to repel
most wild creatures, so that Jack does not get attacked while
enjoying a nap from a dog or another cat, and it is not too
expensive. This will also keep the other cats out of your
beautiful garden. I personally recommend "Purrfect
Fence" and our house-person has graciously written a lovely
review of this product which can be found here.
The next way is to attempt to control the other cats (keeping them
out) through ultrasonic motion detectors. Personally, neither
I nor my house person has tried this method, but have heard that it
is safe and effective. You can find a good manufacturer of
this product here: http://www.barkcontrol.com.au
/prod206.htm
Remember that anything you use to keep the other cats out, may
ultimately have the same effect on your own cat. If she were to
leave a designated area, she may not be able to get back in.
This would leave her at the mercy of the other three cats.
Also, remember that many virues can be air-born (respiratory
illnesses), passed through insect bites (Lyme disease, West Nile),
and even through the ground we walk on (Valley Fever). So - in
order to really keep us felines healthy, inside is best.
I absolutely DO NOT RECOMMEND that you let them "fight it
out". You may not like the end result. Cat fights
can be very dramatic, very painful (for all) animals, and ultimately
deadly. Nearly all cat diseases (FIV, FELV, etc.) are passed
through cat bites. Therefore, even if Jack did not show signs
of an immediate problem, it could manifest itself in a year or
better, and ultimately kill her via failed kidney or liver, or
worse. The further you can keep Jack away from other cats, the
better and happier you will both be.
(Also - she may not be as good of a fighter as I am!)
My strongest recommendation is to keep her indoors. IF that
fails, my next recommendation is to fence off part of your yard with
Purrfect Fencing. They have a wonderful product that I know
you will love. I believe they also have a guarantee program if
it doesn't work or if you are not satisfied.
Meanwhile, keep a close eye on Jack for any lesions, bumps, or
anything that looks like a cat bite which has not healed. They
can be difficult to find, and may lie beneath the surface of the
skin for weeks before festering. It's important to watch for
them - the only thing more potent than a cat bite is a human bite. A
cat's saliva has a protein that is capable of dissolving bone, a
feature used by our feline friends to digest the bones of small
birds and mice. So - infection is a major problem and needs
immediate treatment.
I wish you luck and I do hope that this helped a bit! Please
keep in touch and let us know what you decided to do!
Purrs,
|
Booger |
 |

When
should I wean the kittens?
Q: Ghost,
My
cat just had kittens and I would like to know when to start
introducing solid food.
Jeff
A: Hello
Jeff,
As Foster-dad of all kittens, I can tell you that it is important to let your kittens continue nursing for at least
4-5 weeks. Your mother cat's milk contains Colostrum (just
like humans do) and this provides your kittens with their first
defense against disease.
You will find that the mother cat will begin separating herself from
the kittens, and will begin the weaning process on her own.
What I have always done is to keep food and water, as well as a
litterbox with non-clumping
litter, available for the mother and her litter at all times.
The kittens will observe the mother eat and drink, and you will find
that no effort at all is necessary on your part in the weaning
process.
If you find that your mother cat is not naturally moving the kittens
away from her within 10 wks, then you may need to consider removing
them from her. I have never seen this happen, however.
I hope that this answers your question! If I can be of
additional assistance, please let me know!
Purrs,
|
Ghost |
 |
Stacy's
Behavioral Team!

Baby
Ghost
Grey
Socks
Guinnevere
Tristan
Roscoe
Mama-San
Specialty:
Conflict management

Cheiss
Booger
Kyra (The
Cog)
Isabo

Hephaestian
Magellan
Alexander

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Veterinary Viewpoint is a substitute for the advice of
veterinarian care and does not provide advice or consultation
regarding immediate emergency attention. If your pet has been in an
accident, or is in need of immediate medical attention, you need to
contact your regular veterinarian or local animal hospital
immediately. |