PetsWeekly.com is proud to welcome Stacy Mantle to our website! 

Stacy and her Animal Crew will be answering all of your questions on this page, so please email us at smantle@petsweekly.com for answers to the behavioral questions you've always wondered about.

[Cats and Toothpaste] [Assistance Cats] [Hyperesthesia] [World's Oldest Dog] [Why Cats Cover Feces] [Spraying Cats] [Disobedient Cats] [Abandoned Pets] [Indoor vs. Outdoor Cats] [Weaning Kittens] [Tail Twitching] [Cat Kneading and Suckling] [Pesky Neighborhood Cats!] [Why Are Dogs Colorblind?] [Cats Tipping Bowls]

 [Meet The Behavioral Team]

Cat Tips Over Water Bowl Before Drinking

Dear Ghost,

Purrs, Patty!

Ghost

Why Are Dogs Colorblind? 

Dear Tristan,

I just wanted to know why dogs are color-blind. Write back to me as soon as you read this!!

Amy

Hello Amy!

The idea that dogs are colorblind is a long held theory that is mostly inaccurate.  The truth is, dogs just don't see in the same way that we do. Their "View of the World" is a lot less detailed than ours, and they have less visual acuity of the "RGB" (red, green and blue) spectrum. However, their advantage is the ability to see in the dark better than we, and to more easily spot movement in any environment. 

How do we know that?  I have no idea... Probably YEARS of scientific research and our tax dollars as they develop an answer to this complex question.  Just in case you don’t believe me, I’ve enclosed some wonderful references at the end of my reply.

Ultimately, a dog’s “color blindness” is largely due to evolution and while I have no intention of getting into a "philosophical discussion" on this topic, let's just assume for the sake of argument that evolution is an accurate theory. Humans, therefore, developed from primates (monkeys), while dogs have developed (believe it or not) from Miacids, also known as bears.  Yep - seriously - bears... Bears have been thought to be the “contributing evolution group” for foxes, wolves and even a coyote such as myself.

Primates needed the ability of depth perception so they can swing from tree to tree, find little tiny bugs in their friend's thick hair, and pick up objects.  Miacids, on the other hand, need the ability to detect movement more than they need to identify colors.   They are hunters, not gatherers, and therefore they need to detect fast-moving prey such as rabbits, rats, etc.  Colors are not as important, although they do help.  And so, in mother natures infinite wisdom, she bestowed upon dogs, wolves and bears the ability to track their prey and locate any movement, however minute.

And so, the short answer to your question is that dogs are not COMPLETELY color blind, merely "color-challenged".  But, they have many other redeeming factors in their visual acuteness, which includes the ability to detect even the slightest movement and much better night vision.

Here are some sources online that can help you understand the entire "colorblind dog" myth:

• http://www.uwsp.edu/psych/dog/LA/DrP4.htm   http://www.ccmr.cornell.edu/education/ask/index.html?quid=165

• http://www.puplife.com/dogcaretips/howdogsseecolors.html

• http://www.7thfloormedia.com/projects/exwork/best/bearden/evolve.htm

• http://www.livescience.com/animalworld/ap_050224_california_fossils.html

Hope that helps! 

Best,

Tristan

Pesky Neighborhood Cats

Booger, 

I've been dealing with many neighborhood cats (both domestic and feral) that are terrorizing my yard and home!  We have tried things such as "repellants" but they don't seem to work.  How do you make your neighbors keep their pets indoors?  And how do you stop them from coming into your yard?  And most of all, how can we stop the number of cats in the neighborhood from escalating?  We live near a park and I think they may be coming from there as well.  My door is urine-soaked every morning and they even spray my windshield!  The smell is terrible and I don't even HAVE any cats!

Thanks, 

Tom

Tom, 

You have my condolences!  As we all know cats, both feral and domestic, can cause problems in a neighborhood.  With a close proximity to the park, you are subject to many different types of animals, including cats that have just been abandoned and may not even be completely feral.  So, while I agree that cats should be indoors, even if all the domestic cats are brought in, you will still have to contend with feral or abandoned cats.  Feral cats have a way of moving in and taking over a neighborhood, and that is the direct responsibility of no one.  But, even that has a solution.  Perhaps it is time to begin a Trap/Neuter/Release (TNR) program in the neighborhood?  I’ve outlined the program below in a “solutions” area.  As far as dealing with the neighbors who let their cats out, there are a number of ways to live harmoniously with both. 

While I believe that the cat owners do their best, it is often difficult to bring a cat indoors that has previously spent its life outdoors.  This is obviously difficult for people to relate too.  If a cat has been indoors their entire lives, it is not difficult to keep them in.  But, if cats are accustomed to having “free rein” and then are forced to be indoors only, it can be an impossible task to keep them confined.

As cats, and other domestic or feral animals, are protected by the law and intentionally injuring or killing one is a felony offense, all we can do is to try to live harmoniously and realize that there are probably more important issues in the neighborhood.  But, cats can reek havoc and so let's concentrate on the solutions, not the problems. 

For the Owners:

Fencing:  While there are fences available that will keep cats in the yard, they are expensive (ranging between $400- $1000), and many of your good neighbors may simply be unable to afford them.  The options are Purrfect Fence and KittyWalk products.  Both are excellent solutions, and if you are willing to work with your neighbors on incorporating these into their lives, you may just find that they are very willing to try them out. 

TNR Programs: Due to your proximity to a park, there are likely a number of pets who have been abandoned or lost.  While these may be domesticated cats, they do not belong to anyone in particular.  As all domestic animals are protected from injury or death by the law, one cannot harm them.  In Arizona, it costs $90 to turn a stray into animal control, $70 to turn one into the AZ Humane Society, and you may never be certain if you are trapping a neighbors pet.  If you were to turn a pet in to one of these organizations, and that pet were euthanized (which is often the case with cats), you could easily become involved with a lawsuit.  Therefore, trapping and relocating should be avoided. Even if cats are trapped and removed to another area, they will find their way back to their “home,” making this an effective alternative, or other cats will move into a colony to take the place of the missing one.  Colonies are self-regulating.  The only effective method of controlling your neighborhood cat population is with consistent Trap, Neuter and Release efforts. There are a number of organizations in the world who will assist you with this effort - if you need recommendations for your specific location, let me know and I'll get my human to give you a list.

In the meantime, there are many ways to keep cats out of your yards.  I hope that one or more of these work for you. 

Doors being sprayed:  There are a number of solutions to this problem. 

• Aluminum Foil:  Cats do not like the way that aluminum foil feels on their paws, or the sounds that it makes when stepped on.  Placing a large piece of foil in front of, or taping against, the door is an inexpensive and simple way of stopping the problem. 
• Scat Mats: There are several different types of scat mats.  Some have raised points on them that do not injure the cats, but does deter them from entering the area.  These mats can be purchased from PetCo, PetSmart (Free Shipping on orders of $50 or more at PetSmart.com ), or Drs. Foster & Smith (Specials at Drs. Foster & Smith ) for less than $12.00.  Another type of scat mat can be plugged into a nearby outlet and produces a static electricity charge that, when stepped on, will create a small static charge which keeps the cat away.  These types of mats can be a bit more expensive varying between $50-$100.
• Motion-Activated Sprays:  Ssscat is a motion-activated sensor that produces a safe spray and a loud noise when activated.  They have a range of 3-10 feet, and this can be adjusted for height and range.  
• Doublestick tape: Placing double stick tape on your doors, or most effective on doors.  Sticky Paws offers a wide selection of sizes and they will not harm your doors or windows.  Cats do not like the feel of the tape, and will run away.

These are highly effective methods and quite inexpensive. Often these stop-gaps are only required for a short time period.  The goal is to create doubt about a cat entering the yard.

Garden Areas:  To keep cats out of your garden, you can try several things.

• Ornamental Pebbles/Gravel:  cats do not like to walk on this, and they look nice in yards.
• Water:  Keeping an area moist, which in our heat is a good idea anyway, will deter cats from entering the garden. 
• Plants:  There are several plants that work well for keeping pets out of your garden and/or yard.  One of these is known as Coleus Canina, a newly developed plant that cats (and all types of animals) hate. It releases a stench that animals cannot handle.  However, it only smells to the human nose when touched! It’s a pretty plant and works in nearly all types of landscaping and climates. You could also try using the herb, Rue. The blue leaves create a nice garden accent, and cats seem to hate the odor. Cats are not keen on the smell of citrus either, and so you could try using orange or lemon peel in your yard as a deterrent. Other things that have been successful are coffee grounds, blood meal, cayenne pepper, lavender oil, lemon grass oil, citronella oil, peppermint oil and eucalyptus oil.

Entire Yards:  Note that these solutions generally only need to be activated at night, when strays are most active.

• Water Bottle:  Fill a clear plastic bottle halfway with water. Replace lid and set in the middle of the lawn.  If you have a large lawn area, place two or three out. The theory is that cats are frightened away by light that travels through the bottle of water, giving off little “flashes”. He's away
• Blank or Scratched CD’s:  these work the same way as a water bottle by reflecting light and causing doubt in the cat when he/she enters your yard.
• Motion Activated Sprinkler:  These are essentially sprinklers that are motion activated. When a cat or other pet walks in front of it, they set forth a 3-second burst of water. They run about $50-100.
• UltraSonic Cat Deterrent: These systems operate on a 9-volt battery and when a cat comes into range, it sets off an ultrasonic sound, undetectable to humans.  Often they run about $60.

Hope these suggestions help a little with your cat issues!  Remember that it is always best to start out with a little, then move into the power tools.  It will be much more effective in the long run!

Cats and Toothpaste

Hello,

Every time I put toothpaste on my brush, which is mint flavored, my cat wants to lick it.  She goes completely banana's over it.  Is it okay to let her lick some?

Thanks,

Kathy Easley

 Purrrs Kathy!

Thanks for taking the time to write!  The answer to your question is that it is a bad idea for your cat to lick toothpaste from your brush, no matter how much they love it!  The reason is that toothpaste contains fluoride, which may be toxic to cats (not enough studies to prove it either way, but it's definitely not good for them).  Also - human toothpaste is designed to be spit out, which is really hard to teach cats how to do. So, all in all, letting kitty eat human toothpaste is not a good idea.

I may be able to explain why your cat loves the mint flavor so much. Catnip is from the mint family, and it apparently has a lot of the same characteristics.  So perhaps your cat is trying to substitute mint for catnip.  Have you ever tried giving him/her some catnip toys?  The best ones we've found can be purchased through DuckyWorld.  Catnip from the regular stores may not be strong enough for your kitty and if you've tried that before, it may be the reason he/she didn't react to it.  I would give DuckyWorld products a try and see how that goes.

Also, there are several products out on the market which are mint flavored, and which your cats may love. Most of the actual mint flavored products are designed for dogs, but I'll see if I can't dig some up for cats as well.  Greenies also has a cat treat that my cats adore, and I think it is likely because they may have a bit of a mint flavor.

Thanks for writing!

Assistance Cats 

Stacy,

Is there such a thing as a seeing-eye or hearing-ear cat?

Denise

While most people consider the term "Assistance Cats" a bit of an oxymoron, I have uncovered a number of sources where the term proves true.  Service work for cats, as far as I know, is mostly limited to seizure alert cats; behavioral, emotional and physical rehabilitation; contributing to those who need help with fine motor skills, and even helping those with disabilities such as multiple sclerosis. 

Perhaps the most common practice of training cats to help humans is through the use of "seizure alert" pets.  These unique felines (and canines, birds and others) are trained to alert people who are prone to seizures, from 15 to 45 minutes in advance of an onset!  This allows the person time to move to a safe area, take medication to lesson the seizure, or alert a family member or emergency service who can help them. I'm not completely sure how it works, but animals are able to recognize some type of biological change in the person prior to an imminent seizure and are trained to let the person know what is on the way.  They are also being trained to alert diabetics to low blood sugar levels, somehow able to detect changes before science can.

All types of animals, including cats, are used in animal-assisted therapy (AAT) programs.  AAT is defined by the Delta Society as "goal-directed intervention" and it uses animals to help people make cognitive and physical improvements.  But, dogs and cats are not the only species used in these programs.  Monkeys, miniature horses, and many other types of animals are able to guide people who are visually impaired or otherwise assist in their daily lives. (note:  Check out the Delta Society online at: http://www.deltasociety.org/ for more information)

Is there such a thing as a "hearing ear" or "seeing eye" cat?  I haven't found any "official registries" so far, but I don't rule them out.  While I'm not sure that cats can be "registered" as such, we do have at least one story of a seeing eye cat on the daily mews!  You can view it here: http://www.thedailymews.com/catchat/seeingeyecat.htm.   There are also dozens of personal stories that can be found on the internet, or even in the news, where a cat has "naturally" become a "hearing-ear" or "seeing-eye" cat.

How can training be done? Positive training, or rewarding only the good, is one of the best methods for training your cat, as they simply do not respond to negative reinforcement.  I believe that a lot of their ability to be a service pet depends on the animals own personality as well.  The fact that they are so easy to train could also be attributed to their memory.  According to extensive testing by the University of Michigan, dogs only retain information for five minutes, while a cat can remember something as long as 16 hours.  This remarkable memory exceeds even monkeys and orangutans. 

So why, with their remarkable intelligence and fantastic memories, have cats not been trained as "seeing eye" or "hearing ear" animals?  I believe that one of the main reasons is their size.  They are not as able to reach a doorknob and pull open a door, or pick up an object that has been dropped.  Or maybe the cats just don't want to be trained as assistance animals. 

Personally, I think cats would begin overcharging their humans with bids for extra canned cat food, maybe "faking them out" with alerts that aren't really necessary ( i.e., standing at attention for a doorbell that's not ringing), or would extend their "lunch/nap break" from an hour to twelve hours.  I have 18 cats living here that were supposed to be writing this column, yet here I am – typing away with only an occasional purr to let me know I'm heading in the right direction...

Purrs,

 Cat who Kneads and Suckles

Dear Kyra,

I have an adopted 5-month-old ginger boy named Barney.  He's a very sweet,  funny kitty, and I love him to pieces.  But...he has some strange quirks.   The nice people at the animal shelter told me that he was separated from his mom too early and was bottle fed for a while, so he liked to "suckle" on people's fingers.  I thought that this was cute and he would eventually grow out of it.  The problem is that he's not growing out of it, and it's getting worse.  When I'm trying to sleep at night, he will try to suckle my nose, earlobes, neck, or any exposed skin.  Of course, he also "makes biscuits" on me at the same time.  This is rather annoying when I'm trying to get a good night's sleep.  (Have you ever tried to sleep while another kitty makes biscuits on your chin?  It's hard!)

How can I break my Barney of this habit?  I've tried using strongly scented skin care products in hopes that he wouldn't like the taste, but it hasn't made any difference.  Please help?

Lyndsae Raleigh

Lyndsae,

Sigh.  These little guys are so demanding!  I’m constantly fending off the demanding attentions of Alex, Hephaestion and Magellan.  All they want to do is knead and suckle and eat and follow me around. It’s demeaning to all types of cats, really.  Kneading and suckling are two separate behaviors though, so let’s take them one at a time.

Originally, kneading is done to help stimulate the flow of milk while kittens are nursing.  The kitten will often salivate a bit at the thought of the milk (much like Pavlov’s dogs – shudder), and kneading is generally done at the rate of one stroke per second. Eventually the rate picks up as the kitten is rewarded (or un-rewarded) by the
behavior.  So the fact that Barney is doing this with you shows that he is attempting to nurse, which means he trusts you and feels on some level that you are his provider and his mother.  Bravo!  You should feel honored!  

The fact that Barney is exhibiting this type of behavior towards you is a very good thing.  Cats (and kittens) only perform this behavior when they feel as though they are with their mother.  It is not a result of being weaned too early, although I’m not saying that isn’t a contributing factor.  However, since nearly all cats do this in moments of emotional contentment, I believe that it is merely a sign of showing pleasure for their owner.  

Kneading can also be attributed to “territorial marking”.  In the deep recesses of our paws, we have “scent glands” near the base of our claws – another reason why humans should NEVER DECLAW A CAT!  These little glands allow us to leave our scent in areas that we have crossed, or pawed, or clawed, so that the other cats know what is ours.  Barney is telling everyone around that you are his alone!  He is marking his territory!  (Be happy he is not spraying!).

Suckling, however, is an entirely different issue and could very well be a result of Barney being weaned too early.   However, there are other issues that could be contributing to this behavior.  Only you know Barney!  Here are a few suggestions to try, if you haven’t already done so:  

1. First, pick up some Feliway (Feliway Spray Feliway Spray (75 ml) ) and/or ComfortZone (Comfort Zone Plug-In Comfort Zone Plug-In (48 ml) ) to put into the most-used room of your house!  This remarkable stuff will help Barney relax as it releases feline pheromones into the air and helps them stay calm and content.  Mom put some in our house everyone calmed down right away!  I think it will help Barney feel a little more secure.

2. Provide Barney with an “indoor garden”. One of our favorites is the Kitty Grass Garden by Smart Cats, which looks like this:   It’s easy to grow (ours sprouted ONE DAY after my mom planted it in the house, and she usually kills all plants!).  A higher fiber snack may be more desirable to Barney and help distract him from suckling.

3. Try just standing up and walking away.  This is what “mom cat” does during the weaning process.  Barney may require being “weaned” all over again.  Don’t talk to him, or give him any extra attention.  Just leave. After a few days of this, he will grow bored and realize that you will not be providing "milk" or "comfort" anymore and he will need to locate it on his own.

4. Each night, provide a silent “smart toy” or two for Barney.  Something that brings out his hunting instincts is purrfect.  Our favorites are on our Christmas list:  Check out the Furry mice (great for night-time play), the Cat Spa, the Star Chaser and the Catfisher Mouse and Mitt.  Any of those should help tremendously. (They are also quiet, so you can still sleep while he plays).

5. You may consider adopting another furry friend for Barney.  Occasionally they just need another kitten or cat to play with!  Many shelters will let you bring Barney in to meet with a new little friend who he might get along well with.  This may be the answer to your prayers.

6. Ask a vet to examine Barney’s molar teeth (and all his teeth for that matter!).  Occasionally, sore mouths may stop them from eating solid food, which increases the need for suckling and also helps them get their mind off of pain.

7. Finally as a last resort, you might ask your vet if Barney fits the criteria for being “Obsessive Compulsive”.  If so, there are medications available to treat this disorder.  However, this should be a last resort.  Please be sure to try every other option listed above first.

Hopefully one or more of these suggestions will provide some peace and non-kneading, non-suckling into your home.  Likely, you will never rid of yourself of the kneading, just know that you are honored to have your kitty trust you so much!  It’s not too many people who can be an honorary “cat mom”!  But, the suckling should be rectified.  That can be annoying and it should be fixable.  If any of these suggestions don’t work, please stay in touch and I’ll consult some of my other feline friends for their ideas!  

Purrs and head butts,

Kyra

The World's Oldest Dog

Hello Cheiss,

I have a dog that is part Chihuahua and part fiest. She is 23 years old, I got her 23 years ago, my daughter is 25 years old, I wanted to know if my dog might be the oldest dog alive. Please let me know if she is.

Thank you,

Paula

Hello Paula!

Congratulations on your dog’s 23^rd birthday!  That’s quite a feat!  Obviously she is well taken care of, and that’s what we at PetsWeekly love to hear! 

Unfortunately, she does not hold the title of the “world’s oldest dog”.  That honor goes to an Australian cattle-dog named Bluey.  He was finally put to sleep at the ripe old age of 29 years and 5 months! 

There is some dissension in the ranks when it comes to the title of the world’s oldest dog, however.  Another dog, a Beagle b the name of Butch, holds the American title for world’s oldest dog.  His name can be found in the Guinness Book of World Records for living to the age of 27 years – that’s about 190 in human years!  At last note, he was still alive and begging for food! 

So keep taking great care of your dog, and who knows?  In another four years, you may be able to claim the title of “World’s Oldest Dog!

Paws,

Cheiss

Cats Covering Their "Feces"

Dear Kyra,

Why do cats cover their feces?  My two cats are neurotic about covering up everything in their litter box, which is stupid because it’s automatic anyway.  Is it really necessary?

Thanks,

Kristin

Purrs and Head butts Kristin!

Cats cover up their feces because they don’t want to be to eaten by large prey.  Seriously.  We know that there are no large animals who will eat us in the house (unless you live here with my mom, who happens to have a coyote living with us, which is a whole other story in itself).  But, most cats don’t have coyotes living in homes with them.  Mostly it is instinct. 

We cover up our feces so that the bigger and meaner animals can’t find us.  That’s why we begin using our litter box so early, and without any real training.  Besides the fact that we are so much more intelligent than other animals, such as coyotes, it is instinctual for us to cover our litter. 

On the other hand, were we living in the wild, and were we the dominant male, we would be prominently displaying our “droppings” as a warning to all who entered our domain.  This is one way we let others know who is really the boss.  So be happy that your cats are covering up their feces, and are using the litter box.  Occasionally, we will leave something around just to prove who the boss really is, but then mom and dad step in and remind us were not in the wild.  The coyote doesn’t say much about it though.  He’s pretty domesticated.  It’s sad, really.

Remember that if a cat suddenly stops using the litter box for some reason, you should have it checked it out immediately by a veterinarian.  There could be a urinary blockage or perhaps there is some type of medical reason behind a sudden change of behavior.  Mom has reviewed some pretty good products to clean up the occasional accident as well, so be sure to check out On the Prowl for some great recommendations.

I hope that answers your question!  We’re all just wild at heart, you know! 

Purrs,

Kyra, The Cog

Spraying Cats

Hephaestian,

I live with 2 male cats (neutered) and 1 female cat (spayed).  All of a sudden they have started spraying (they are 1 year old).  They have sprayed my bed, my doors and in my closet (that I know of).  I'm sick of doing laundry and I don't know if it is just one cat or all of them, or just the males.  Can females even spray?  I would like to find out which ones are spraying, why they are spraying and more importantly, how I can make them ALL STOP spraying!  I'm not the type of person to just get rid of my pets when they do something bad, but I've HAD IT with this behavior!  Any ideas on how to solve this issue? 

Thanks,   

Jeff

Purrs and head butts, Jeff!

Wow.  That's a lot too take.  I remember when my mom had to deal with 15 male cats and 3 female cats at one time.  All of us were spraying, because really, that's what we do... You've heard the expression "P**sing contest"?  Well, that is pretty much what was going on.  Cat urine carries a chemical known as "uretic crystals" and marking territory with these crystals helps us remember whose turn it is to "own" something. We sort of "timeshare" our belongings, such as scratch posts, and this allows us to let the other cats know whose turn it is.  Even the females do this, so don't think it's just the guys!  (We generally get the blame because people think that females don't spray, but they are not as prissy as everyone thinks they are!)

Obviously this is very traumatic for humans who, rumor has it, tend to avoid "urine marking".  As far as identifying the culprit, there are a number of ways you can do this.  But, why?  When one stops spraying another will probably start, so eliminate the problem altogether.  If you really feel the need to find out if only one cat is doing it, write back and we'll tell you ways that can be done.  But, for now, let's concentrate on stopping the problem.

The first thing you need to do is eliminate any health problems.  I say that because I'm legally obligated by the Coalition of Cat Attorneys to say so.  I really think that they are doing it because they can.  But, it's a good thing to take all of your kitties in for their annual anyway.  Once the health problems are eliminated, you can begin the solving the real problem, which is "time sharing" and "attitude". 

The first thing to do is block access to the object they spray the most.  This can be done in several ways.  The best way is through a little product known as Ssscat, which I personally despise.  It's motion activated, highly effective, and non-invasive.  You can read a review that my mom did on the product here.  

But before you block access, you need to eliminate any trace of cats being in that spot.  This can be done with a product known as UrineOff, and you can read about it here.  It's the only product on the market that actually dissolves the uretic crystal.  It even penetrates wood, concrete and grout, but is gentle enough for clothes and materials.  

When you've finished spraying that area down (and that's ALL you have to do), purchase the next little item known as Feliway.  Spray a bit directly on the area that was being sprayed, and then plug in the Comfort Zone Diffuser.  This will help calm the cats down and make them forget about territorial disputes or marking areas, really, it will make them forget about anything but relaxing and getting along happily.

Hope that helps!  Write back if you have additional questions and we'll be happy to toss out a few more ideas!  

Purrs, 

Hephaestion

Tail Twitching

Mama-San

My 1 yr old tabby has developed a fear of its tail!  The end twitches and she sometimes lightly attacks it, but most times just runs from it (especially at night) your site mentions anger in connection with tip- twitching. But she is the sweetest little cat in world and gets along famously with two other cats in the house who are the same age.  We have had visits from a raccoon lately and we have more than a few neighborhood cats prowling around.   But this has me mystified. I hate to have to give her drugs, but if it gets worse she might need prozac or ????? Any info would be greatly appreciated  

Thanks,   

Donna

Purrs and head butts, Donna!

 I recently had a similar problem with my own tail, which also baffled my mom, only I was twitching and chewing it down to a nub.  There is something known as "hyperethesia" or "Rolling Skin Syndrome" (Read more about it here).  First of all, your cat's problem with her tail sounds more neurological / nervous than physical.  Of course, the first thing my mom did was take me to a veterinarian for a full workup.  It's best to be safe, I suppose.  So my first recommendation is that you do the same.  They will likely need to draw blood in order to eliminate any kidney and/or liver issues that could be contributing to this issue.  The next thing my mom did was evaluate me for food allergies.  You may want to think about changing her diet. I'm not sure what type of food you have her on, but a good one (that has no allergens and tastes VERY good is Life'sAbundance - you can find more information about it here: http://www.petsweekly.com/LifeAbund.html)

But, had my mom just listened to me, she would have known that I was chewing my tail off because I was very upset with a new arrival in the home, my arch-enemy, Isabo.  Isabo was chasing me around for no reason at all and had no idea that I was the queen of the household, not her.  But, she never did it when my mom was watching.  Isabo is VERY sneaky and conniving and I could never explain the depths of her betrayals to my mother.  Eventually they put me on a mood altering medication, which did NO good because I was just too stressed out.  But, then my mom started really paying attention.  She saw that Isabo was terrorizing me, and chasing me and finally realized what the real problem was.  I was so happy!  They took me off of the medication, and purchased something called "Feliway" which you can also read about here (my mom is very thorough on product testing).  She also put me in a different room all by myself where I could be alone for awhile with just my mom and dad.  That made me feel much better. This calmed everyone down and no one had to be on any drugs!   Eventually I felt much better, and I was able to come back out and deal with all of the crazy cats in the house again.  I just needed a little break away from everyone, and some one-on-one time with mom and dad.

So, you may want to consider the behavioral issue.  I would say that the raccoon or the other cats may be contributing to her behavior issues.  Often, this nervous energy manifests itself as tail-biting, teeth-grinding, and other negative things.   I do hope this helps a little!  I always say:  First, eliminate the  physical problem, then address the mental issue, then cure the emotional distress.  This is my usual "Recipe for success" with cats and it seems to work in 99.9% of all cases!  

Good luck and please keep us posted on your progress!  :)

 Purrs,

Mama-San >^..^<

Why does my cat insist on jumping up on the kitchen counter when I've scolded him again and again for it?? His older sister does not do that. She knows it's a no-no. So why does he do it?

Shirley

Hello Shirley!

Cats love to be up high, and it is more normal for them to be on the kitchen counter than not to be.  In fact, I find it more unusual that your kitty's sister is not jumping up on the counter.  However, it could be that females are just simply a little more "in-tune" with our wishes!  It is also possible that your male has learned to associate food with the countertops, and perhaps it gives him a sense of superiority over the rest of the household by being up there.  (You know how males are with those superiority complexes!)

My first recommendation is to purchase a product known as Ssscat.  It's a wonderful deterrent and it works when you are not around.  That way your cat does not associate the negative behavior only with your presence.  You can read more about this product here.

You can set it on either noise plus a safe spray, or simply on noise.  It is motion-activated, so every time your cat jumps on the counter, he will be met with a loud noise, which reminds him not to do so.  It only takes a few times before he associates this negative sound with his behavior.  Trust me - he will stop jumping up there...

In addition to this, I would purchase (if you don't have one already) a tall cat tree that might fit in an area near a window.  This will provide some extra entertainment for your kitty, and also provide the stimulation and exercise that he gets from climbing.  Stacy Mantle, my personal assistant, has devoted herself to finding the best products for us and has written a fun review on my most favorite cat tree, which can be found here.  It is  easy to assemble and can be formed into many different shapes. It is also very lightweight (Stacy can lift the entire 8 tiered set with one hand, yet it is sturdy enough to hold 14 of my friends at once!)

I hope this helps.  If you have any other questions, please feel free to write any time!  

Purrs,                                           

Baby >^..^<

Dear Grey Socks, 

I have just found your web page on a search engine. I am after a bit of advice really. My next door neighbours have moved away well the wife and children have. However the husband goes away for 4 days every week leaving the cat outside in the pouring rain etc. The lady at the bottom of the road feeds her I think but it doesn't seem to be on a regular basis. The cat is always on my doorstep meowing, but I have a dog so am not really able to look after her. We have put her a blanket in her porch for her to sleep on but she looks very bedraggled and seems to have lost fur off her ears. I have never had a cat myself so I do not really know anything about them, but I would of thought that if you were moving house you would of taken the cat with you to its new home by now. I would be very grateful for some advice before I go complaining to the RSPCA and wasting their time if it is normal behaviour to keep a cat like this. I don't think it has ever been wormed or fleaed or had any injections either, it is never let into the house when they lived here full time but now he only lives here part time it seems to have even less companionship. 

Yours in Anticipation 

Mrs.  Bristol

Mrs. Bristol,

As I currently reside stateside in the wild deserts of Arizona, I'm not sure how much assistance I am going to be.  However, I can assure that this is no way for a cat to be kept.  If this were occurring in the states, my house person would either take the cat in herself, which it does not sound as if you are able to do, or she would contact our local Humane Society (I believe that your equivalent might be the RSPCA) for their recommendation. Bear in mind that even if you have a dog, you may be able to take this poor cat in.  I currently reside with 18 other cats and 3 dogs, one of whom is half-coyote/half wolf.  And while we frequently have to remind him who actually runs the household, we do live and play together in relative peace.  Remember, "the lion will lie down with the lamb".    

If you are in a position of helping this poor creature out, I would say that may be the best solution.  Again, I'm not sure how the RSPCA operates, but if it occurred here, the cat may be put to sleep for no other crime than lack of room in the shelter and their owner's stupidity.  It is animal cruelty and neglect, no matter how you look at it. Their website is:  http://www.rspca.org.uk/

I have also done a search on Yahoo for "United Kingdom Humane Society", as I do not know of many in the UK.  You might get further by contacting a no-kill rescue organization and asking them what they recommend.  The search results that I came up with are: http://dir.yahoo.com/Science /Biology/Zoology/Animals_ _Insects__and_Pets/Organization s/Humane_and_Rescue_Societies /By_Region/Countries/United _Kingdom/Complete_List?o=a

I hope that this helps.  Please know that this poor cat deserves a happy home and a healthy life, and we applaud your attempt to help.  Please keep us posted as to the outcome, as we have confidence that it will be a positive one.  And if you have the opportunity, you may wish to knock the human creatures who abandoned the poor thing upside the head.  At the very least, hiss at them...

Purrs,                                                                      

Grey Socks

Allowing Indoor Cats Out

Dear Booger,

I'm very worried about my cat Jack ( Girl) about a month and half ago I moved Jack to our new home which has a lovely big garden and no roads for miles. After about a month see started cry to go out, Unfortunately our next do neighbour has 3 cats who have probably been using our garden as there territory for years. There's one cat in particular who keeps attacking jack, on the first attack she caught a nasty virus of this cat and was poorly for over a week, now she's better and wants to go out again but she got attacked again, the other cat didn't give her a chance it just flew at her, the only thing I could do was chase it off but it just keeps coming back, do u have any suggestions? I feel like I should just let Jack get on with it and fight her own battles, but I find myself following her and checking she's ok every time she's out of my sight. If u could help I'd be very grateful I just want her to be happy in her new home

Kind Regards,

Carolyn & Jack

Dear Carolyn,

First off, let me address the issue of outdoor cats.  The biggest problem is that they can carry disease, just as indoor cats could, but outdoor cats are more susceptible to it.  They also live about half as long as indoor cats, and are more likely to become injured (or worse in horrible accidents).  So - it is best for Jack if you were to keep her inside. 

Now that the "politically correct answer" is completed, I can get to the answer that you wrote for.

There are several ways in which you and Jack can share the great outdoors together without fear of disease, fights, accidents or any of those other horrible things.